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Emitters are irrigation devices used to provide a regulated amount of water to a specific plant or location.

It is recommended to place emitters above ground or covered with light mulch with the outlet pointed upward. Emitters with the outlet in the dirt may clog with muddy water being drawn back into it upon shut down.

Sometimes a goof plug is not enough to repair a leak. If this is the case, you will need to cut out the leak and repair the line with a coupler. We have different types of fittings: Easy Loc, compression and barbed.

Sediment, sand, algae, or any number of things can get in your water and clog your emitters. It is always recommended to place a filter on your drip system. If your water is extremely dirty, water pressure can force contamination through the filter screen, so it's important to give the filter element a timely, regular cleaning. You can also run line cleaning product through the line.

Calcium or hard water and very fine sediments will eventually clog emitters, even if they are otherwise properly filtered. The simplest repair is to leave the old emitter in place and install another emitter near it. You can also run line cleaning product through the line.

Yes, it is common to replace a leaky or clogged emitter. Normally emitters are not repaired. Some are cleanable, like the DTA's and the CETA's.

Identify where the water is coming from. It can come from the punched hole or a broken emitter. If the hole is too big or if the emitter is leaking from places it shouldn't, carefully remove it from the tubing and plug the hole with a goof plug (14GP2 or 14GP1). Woodpeckers have an optional cap.

Different types of emitters have varying pressure needs. It is best to check manufacturers' specifications.

That depends on the capacity of your line and the flow rate of each emitter. 1/2" tubing can carry up to 240 GPH, and 3/4" tubing can carry up to 480 GPH. If you are using a 2 GPH emitter, on 1/2" tubing; divide 240 GPH by 2 GPH (240/2), this will give you the total number of emitters that you can use on a line. If you got 120 emitters as the answer, you are correct.

A pressure compensating (PC) emitter has a built-in flow regulating diaphragm that delivers the same amount of water regardless of changes in pressure or terrain.

Non-pressure compensating emitters (Basic) tend to be lower in cost and work at pressures below 10 PSI. They are pressure dependent, releasing less water at lower pressures and more at higher pressures. Pressure compensating emitters (PC) maintain a consistent flow rate despite changes in terrain or pressure changes.

The DTA emitters also known as the "Take Apart Emitter" or "Flag Emitter" are not adjustable, however it is a basic type of emitter, which means pressure (PSI) can affect its output. Running it at lower pressures will reduce its flow (GPH).

Yes, you can go directly from a hose start to emitter tubing (DET), using some form of female hose beginning like the ELFH or CHS. Be sure to install a filter between the hose start and your DET. Emitter tubing uses the same type of fittings you would use for 1/2" mainline tubing.

Most emitters work best at 20 PSI or higher. Basic emitters will work at pressures below 10 PSI, though flow rates will be correspondingly lower. Pressure compensating emitters should not be used below 10 PSI, their flow rates may be erratic and can vary between emitters.

Size your water filter to the flow of your system. Normal screen size for drip irrigation filters is 120-155 mesh while Drip Tape and misters require 200 mesh filtering.

Yes. Warranties on parts are not valid without a filter on a drip system.

A filter removes debris (suspended solids) in the water that could clog emitters.

Frequency of cleaning will depend on how clean your water is. If you have clean city or well water, check the filter after the first couple of weeks and clean the filter as needed after that. If you have dirty water you may have to clean the filter more often.

The valve at the bottom of the filter is not strictly a flush valve, but a valve used to release backpressure before removing the screen for cleaning. It can also be used to purge solids that settle at the bottom of the filter bowl.

Install the filter at any convenient point upstream of (above) the drip system. If you place the filter before a valve , make certain it can handle constant pressure.

Yes, a filter screen can be replaced. And no, torn filter screens cannot be repaired.

In our home garden screen filter sections you will find smaller models of filters that are hose threaded and work with small to medium sized systems with city of well water. They will filter out small particles such as sediment or silt. The next size up from that is our heavy duty screen filters; the filter models in this category are rated for constant pressure and can be placed before a timer or automated valve. They have a heavy duty body and come in larger sizes to accommodate different system flow rates. The last category is for disc filters. Disc filters are used if you are pulling water from a creek, holding tank, or lake that may contain organic debris such as sludge or algae. These filters are also rated to handle constant pressure.

Hose thread and 3/4" pipe thread are the same diameter but hose threads are more coarse than pipe thread. Attempting to mate pipe and hose thread will cause leaking and damage to the threads.

It is not recommended to bury fittings unless they are PVC or HDPE fittings, however if you do bury fittings it is best to place them in a shallow trench covered with a light mulch.

If a fitting is leaking, it may not be secured correctly to the tubing, it could be damaged, or the tubing it is attached to may be split or deformed.

Yes, there are several transitional fittings that adapt from PVC to Easy Loc. For the 1/2" Easy Loc we have a 1/2" PVC fitting (EL12S) and a 3/4" PVC fitting (EL34S).

DripWorks especially likes Easy Loc fittings for their ease of use and re-use and their reliability.

Yes, most fittings are reusable, with our Easy Loc parts the most reuse-friendly. Compression fittings can be removed from tubing with some difficulty, and some damage to the compression ring may result. Tubing often needs to be cut off barbed fittings, which can then be reused.

Our 1/2" Easy Loc fittings work well with our 0.600 ID x 0.700 OD tubing and are compatible with tubing sized 0.590 - 0.630 ID. We also have special 0.620 OD Easy Loc fittings for RainDrip tubing.

With compression fittings, you insert the drip tubing into the fitting where a circular edge grabs the soft tubing and holds it, even under pressure. They are relatively inexpensive and easy to install though very difficult to remove and reuse. Easy Loc fittings take the tubing over their barb and then use an integrated collar to tighten the fitting to the tubing. They are a bit more expensive but easy to install, and much easier to remove and reuse. See our Easy Loc videos for more information.

Sometimes. If the pressure is less than 20 PSI, you may get by without hose clamps. Your situation will let you know what will work. Clamps make the installation safe from failure. If your pressure is low, be sure the tubing fits tightly over the barbed fitting. If there is looseness, use a clamp.

Slide a basic 1/4" washer over the tubing before inserting the tubing into the fitting. To disconnect, press the washer against the inner spring-loaded sleeve of the fitting and firmly pull the tubing out of the fitting.

With a male hose by male pipe adapter (AMHMP).

3/4" pipe thread fittings look similar to hose-thread fittings, but the threading is closer together and the diameter is slightly smaller. To seal these connections we recommend using thread sealant tape over pipe dope.

Yes, the 620 Easy Loc fittings are for your smaller tubing. Specifications are as follows: I.D. (Inside diameter) range is from 0.510-0.580 inches (12.9-14.7 MM).

That depends on the diameter of your tubing. Easy Locs work on tubing with an ID (Inside Diameter) range of .590 to .630. However we carry adapter fittings to transition from .620 to .700 tubing.

Compression fittings have less wiggle room than EZ-Loc fittings and must closely match the outside diameters of the tubing being inserted, rather than tubing's inside diameter. Our 1/2" compression fittings work with .700 OD tubing. Our 3/4" compression fittings work with .940 OD tubing.

No, the drip tape is a thin walled product that uses our 5/8" tape fittings, mainline fittings are not compatible with it.

Thread sealant tape will be needed to wrap male pipe threads in order to make a leakproof connection.

Any female garden hose thread will have a round hose washer seated inside of it. If you aren't getting a water proof connection when screwing hose fittings together, be sure that the washer is present and seated correctly.

Ball valves are PVC gate valves used to turn off water flow to certain areas, they are also used in fertilizer injector bypass assemblies to aid in controlling the flow of the injector. Ball valves come in PVC slip or female pipe threaded versions. We also have union ball valves that contain the ability to remove the unions on either side of the fitting so you can remove the valve as needed without having to disassemble to the entire setup.

Misters can be used for both watering and cooling. Fine misters such as the Cool Breeze or Superfine misters do not dispense enough water to be as effective for watering while other misters may dispense too much water to be effective for cooling.

Any water remaining in the line above the misters will drip. Install an anti-drip device before each mister, and/or place a flush valve or valves at lower points in the supply line.

Higher pressure will generate a finer mist, but some misters will work at pressures as low as 20 PSI.

Many misters can be inverted, but check specifications to determine if inverting the mister is recommended.

The most common installation is to place the mister "head to head" so the spray of one misters or sprayers reaches the body of the next mister or sprayer in the zone.

You will almost always need a pressure regulator in a drip system because drip irrigation is designed around water pressures that are lower than that found in a standard residential water system. Low pressure gravity systems may not need a regulator. Pressure compensating emitters have a pressure regulator built into the emitter and, unless the pressure is excessive, these emitters do not need an additional pressure regulator.

No, pressure regulators will not increase pressure.

Normally the pressure regulator will be placed after the valve and filter in a system. On a large system with many valves, a pressure limit valve, a type of regulator, may be placed before the valves and after a constant-pressure filter. In cases when the water has to travel a long distance before it gets to the drip system, it is best to place the regulator just upstream of the emitters.

Yes, water must flow through a regulator in one direction as indicated by flow direction arrows.

No. It may appear to operate but with erratic and inconsistent behavior. Look for arrows indicating direction of water flow for correct installation.

Only if your pressure exceeds the maximum recommended for any of your drip irrigation system components. If your water source is elevated more than 15-20', then you may need a pressure regulator. The only way to be certain is to test the operating pressure with a gauge. Dripworks offers several at the following link: Pressure Gauges

No. A standard pressure regulator placed before any valve will not lower your pressure if the water does not have the minimum flow as printed on the regulator body. Instead, use a pressure limit valve or a static regulator.

No, a normal pressure regulator will not lower your pressure if the water is not flowing. Use a pressure limit valve or a static regulator. The Pressure Limit Valve will limit the downstream pressure to no more than 15 psi above the stated pressure of the Valve during no-flow conditions.

Yes, we offer limit valves that are pressure regulators rated to handle constant pressure. They come in 3/4" FPT and 1" FPT.

A new punch tool will have a black tip protector that must be removed before using. It seems simple, but many people forget. Sometimes, a chip of plastic tubing from the last cut plugs the cutter's hollow shaft, making it harder to punch the next hole. It can be removed with a fingernail or the fine tip of a knife blade or other pointed object.

The new .400 punch (PU400NEW) will make a hole big enough to accommodate the Mini-Wobbler tubing assembly (MWRA) , though the supply line must be 3/4" or larger tubing.

The Miracle punch is our go-to punch! It is as easy as using an office stapler. The punch can be used with 1/2" and 3/4" mainline tubing.

https://www.dripworks.com/miracle-punch

The spaghetti stickler is not only a punch, but an emitter remove tool, and tubing stretcher to make installing micro fittings easier, and a micro tubing insertion tool. https://www.dripworks.com/spagetti-stickler-punch-tool

It will not, the hole made by the pocket punch will work for emitters and micro fittings, but a slightly larger punch size will be needed for the drip tape fittings. Please see the orange handle punch for this purpose:

https://www.dripworks.com/orange-handle-punch

You will need to use the .400 punch tool for any .400 drip tape fittings, or any other fittings listed as .400. https://www.dripworks.com/400-barb-punch

Sprayers are typically fixed with no moving parts Water tends to spread in a fan or stream pattern. Sprinklers have one or more moving parts and the water is distributed with a scattering of droplets.

Bubblers deliver more water to a smaller area, using a circular spray. Shrubblers deliver less water into a larger area than a Bubbler, distributing fingers of water.

Spot spitters are small spray sticks connected to mainline via by 1/8" transfer barbs and 1/8" micro tubing. They are great for small container watering and come in a flat spray or horizontal spray.

https://www.dripworks.com/spot-spitters-5-pack

https://www.dripworks.com/horizontal-spray-stick

Yes, many of our sprinklers can have their distances adjusted.

Sprayers tend to use a bit to a fair bit more water than drip, but cover a wider area. In addition, drip loses less of the water being dispensed via evaporation, erosion, and dispersal away from the plants root zone.

Radius is how far the water is thrown. The arc refers to the watering pattern, whether it is a half circle, a quarter circle or other portion of the arc.

Matched precipitation means that as the sprinkler's arc is adjusted, the amount of water that falls on any given square foot remains the same. Changing the arc on a conventional sprinkler from 1/4 circle to 1/2 circle will reduce the amount of water falling on a square foot by 1/2.

SuperNet PC sprinklers are a good choice for many trees because, as the tree grows, it is possible to extend the spray radius without over drafting the supply of the irrigation system. Other sprinklers can serve this purpose as well so check the specs of each sprinkler before choosing.

No, only a few sprinklers are designed to be inverted. The most common inverted sprinklers that we sell are the Ein Dor Mini-Sprinklers, inverted Mini-wobblers, and Tornado misters.

Yes, the stake has a groove that allows the SuperNet sprayers to clip into it, our other stake options are do not fit.

MP Rotators are factory set at maximum radius. If an adjustment is to be made it is best done while the sprinkler is working. There is a screw on the top of the MP Rotator that can be adjusted using a tool (MPRTOOL). Insert the recessed, flat screwdriver end of the tool into the spray head screw and turn clockwise to reduce the radius or counterclockwise to increase it.

Yes! Follow the link below for sprinkler to drip conversion options. https://www.dripworks.com/drip-irrigation/irrigation-kits/sprinkler-to-drip-conversion

Under normal circumstances supply tubing can last up to 10 years.

Supply tubing is solid and used throughout your system and is used to carry water from one point to another. It is designed to have holes punched into it for emitters or fittings. Emitter tubing has drippers built into the tubing at regular spacing and is used to distribute water to your plants. It also can have additional holes punched into it for emitters and transfer barbs.

A kink is not a problem. It will not cause a weak spot and will disappear under pressure. Setting the tubing in the sunlight 2 hours prior to installation will make the tubing softer and more flexible, lessening the kinks as well. Use an elbow to make a turn that is too tight for the tubing.

Your supply line needs to be sized to both the amount of water available from the water source and the amount of flow usage within the system. 1/2" tubing is sufficient for most uses and can carry 240 gallons per hour (GPH). If a watering zone requires more than 240 gph, use 3/4" or larger tubing. Most domestic water systems have at least 480 GPH available. see our Flow Calculator.

If a quarter just covers its diameter, it is 3/4" tubing (OD .940). If a penny just covers its diameter, it is 1/2" tubing(OD .700). Some 1/2" inch tubing (such as Raindrip tubing) may be smaller. Consult the tubing diagram on the fittings page in our catalog.

Burying tubing in a shallow trench or covered with a light mulch is acceptable. It is best to have easy access to the tubing in case repairs are necessary.

It may be possible to get an adapter for your fittings, if this is not possible, do a cost analysis and replace the tubing or the fittings.

The High Pressure Hose Extension (HPEX3 or HPEX5) is designed to take the weight of your timer, filter, and pressure regulator off the spigot. It is a nominal 3/4" and has brass male and female hose threaded ends.

Yes, with a hose by 1/4" barb fitting (H14BSFW) or hose by 1/4" compression fitting (H14BSFW). Remember that 1/4" tubing is meant for short distances and small flows. It can carry 30 GPH max and should not be run beyond 30 feet max.

Under normal usage, 1/4" tubing should last 8 years or longer.

1/4" micro tubing: 30' max row length

1/2" mainline tubing: 200' max row length

3/4" mainline tubing: 400' max row length

Oval hose is our larger poly mainline tubing options. There are 1", 1.5", and 2" tubing roll options. The tubing is called oval hose because it is flat for packing and shipping purposes, but becomes round when once installed and pressurized.

We carry AC electric timers, DC battery timers, propagation timers for greenhouses, a zero pressure battery timer for gravity systems, solar timers and wind-up timers.

Determine what your irrigation needs are and read the description of each timer on our website or in our catalog to find the timer that most closely meets your needs.

Many of our timers can control as many as 4, 6, 8 or more valves. If the timer you choose controls no more than 4 valves and you want to add a fifth later, you will need another controller. If you think you may add valves in the future, buy a timer with the ability to expand, such as the Hunter Pro C.

Hose threaded battery timers should not be left outdoors when there is a danger of freezing. Exterior and well-protected interior electric controllers can be left outdoors. Valves connected to both exterior and interior controllers should be drained and protected.

Read the owners manual. If it is a simple problem, we may be able to help . The manufacturer of the timer will also have technical assistance available.

We warranty most of our battery timers for two years. Manufacturers may have additional warranties. Check your owners' manual for specific warranty information.

It really depends on your situation. Where electricity is not easily available, commercial grade battery timers can be excellent choices. Electric timers have a long history of good reliability and are highly recommended for all varieties of plantings.

Yes. It sounds like the hose washer screen is clogged with debris. Be sure to clean the screen frequently or, better yet, install a larger, constant pressure filter before the timer to insure it stays clean.

Extremely! With the (TGNGH6) timer, each station can be programmed as its own individual single station timer. You can program a station to turn on/off in one second intervals for propagation purposes, or have it turn once a week for 3 hours to water your orchard.

Hose-threaded battery-operated dial timers with no digital display tend to require the least amount of effort when programming.

It is not recommended to bury the emitter tubing we carry, Drip Tape is the exception to this, and normally an air bleed valve is recommended with buried Drip Tape. It is ok to cover other types of emitter tubing with light mulch.

Under normal circumstances emitter tubing can last up to 10 years.

A pressure compensating emitter has a flow regulator built into it. These emitters deliver the same amount of water regardless of changes in pressure or terrain.

Drip Tape is non-pressure compensating. It operates at lower pressures, has lower flow rates and a lower cost than emitter tubing. Emitter tubing is pressure compensating, remains round after shut-down and has greater longevity.

As a general rule up is better than down, so that back suction does not draw in muddy water when the system stops running. It also prevents debris from settling into the emitter pathways.

The maximum run lengths for 1/4" soaker dripline are as follows:

DSD6=6" spacing=18'

DSD9=9" spacing=25'

DSD12=12" spacing=34'

If you over extend these lengths you may have insufficient water to fill all your emitters and experience inconsistent flows at each emitter.

Soaker dripline can last 8+ years when exposed to sunlight and longer if covered, mulched over or buried.

The maximum run length for 1/2" emitter tubing will vary depending on the flow rate of the emitter and the distance between emitters.

Maximum run lengths for DET are:

DET95=300'

DET91=190'

DET125=450'

DET121=250'

DET181=350'

DET241=400'

DET361=550'

Yes. Emitter tubing uses our standard 1/2" fittings so you can connect directly to a hose start like the ELFH or CHS though it is recommended that a filter be placed between the faucet and the start fitting.

Each Drip Tape emitter has a very narrow turbulent flow path for water to pass through and thus clogs easily; requiring a finer mesh filter than many other emission systems.

Our most popular drip tape option is the 15 mil 8", the low flow emits 20 GPH per 100 feet of tape, and the high flow version emits 40 GPH per 100 feet of tape.

Yes. Make sure there is no standing water in the line and try not to *store it with any kinks. Kinks create a point of weakness in Drip Tape where a leak can occur. If leaks do occur they can be repaired using a coupler (LSC). *Note: Seal off both ends of your Drip Tape runs before storing to prevent dirt and insect intrusion.

The drip holes will need to face upwards towards the sky

15 mil drip tape will last 5-7 years, the 8 mil tape will last 2-3 years, and the 6 mil tape will only last 1 year.

Valves are like gates that can be opened or closed to allow or prevent water to flow.

No. A timer initiates the opening and closing of a valve, using an electronic pulse. The valve is the gate that allows or prevents water from passing. Many battery operated timers are sold with valves attached to or integral with the timer. Electric (AC) controllers require separate valves to be installed for system operation.

In most cases valves cannot be shut off at the valve. Most battery and electric timers have a manual on/off that interrupts the current operating cycle. Individual valves may have a "switch" that allows for a manual on/off that works when the controller signal is off. We recommend not changing the flow control setting, which is factory preset.

Each controller is built with a limited number of valves that can be actuated. Four, six and eight valve controllers are common. Some commercially oriented units are modular in design and have the ability to control up to 32 valves.

The Anti-Siphon Valve should be located higher than the sprinklers or drip emitters in your system. Look for flow direction arrows. The solenoid is located on the downstream side of the valve and upstream of the anti-siphon device.

The solenoid, the part with the wires protruding from it, is mounted on the downstream side of the valve. An inline valve should be oriented horizontally; that is, parallel to the earth's surface, and not in a vertical position.

The AC (electric) valves have a manual red on/off lever and a three-pronged, top-mounted knob for flow control. The DC (battery) valves do not have these parts and the wire colors are different between the two types also; AC wires are black, while DC wires are black and green.

The red lever is your manual on/off. Its normal setting is vertical. If you turn it to the horizontal position, you will turn the water flow on. Turning the lever to its vertical position will turn off the water flow and the valve will be ready for the controller to begin its next cycle.

Yes, we carry replacement valve solenoids, listed by brand.